FUN-travel Asia: Part 3

June 12, 2010 by · Comments Off on FUN-travel Asia: Part 3 

Day 40 – Sunday, April 4 – Chongquin, China

Chongquin Zoo

Full Day Excursion 11:00 – 7:00

  • Good News – go to largest city zoo in China
  • Good News – 6 pandas all awake and eating bamboo
  • Good News – beautiful Japanese gardens
  • More Good News – city tour includes highest peak with gardens and former home of Chiang Kai-shek – Eling Park and
  • Guangdone Guild House – 17th century buildings around courtyard with museum of relics found on the grounds
  • Bad News – polluted overcast skies
  • Good News – 70’s
  • Good News – 5 star cruise ship
  • Bad News – split beds again
  • Good News – upgrades available
  • Bad News – $600 (for 3 days they have to be kidding)
  • Good News – I’ll be buying my upgrade in Hong Kong

Day 41 – Monday, April 5 – Yangtze River Cruise, China

Carved Buddha

  • Bad News – China 5 star clearly way different than rest of world
  • Good News – holiday today called Light Spring Festival and Tomb Sweeping Day – yearly cleaning of gravesite includes
  • lighting incense and setting off firecrackers and to ask for blessings from the dead for those still living
  • Good News – go to morning lecture – learn that Yangtze is 3rd longest river in world – 3900 miles (Mekong is the 6th longest)
  • Bad News – 1:30 afternoon excursion delayed until 4:30, so take nap
  • Good news – good exercise – walk 696 steps to Fendu – ghost city
  • Bad News – can’t see much due to fog & pollution & not much to do so go back early

FUN-travel: Asia Part 2

May 24, 2010 by · Comments Off on FUN-travel: Asia Part 2 

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

Day 25 – Saturday, March 20 – Siem Reep, Cambodia

  • Good News – arrive Victoria Angkor Hotel – get upgraded to Maharadjah Suite and invited to managers cocktail reception (only happens once a month, how lucky is that?)
  • Afternoon Excursion –  2:00 – 6:00
  • 1st stop Angkor Wat – up for one of the 7 New Wonders of the World (guide tells us it is since UNESCO said so) – world’s largest religious monument covering 200 hectares, architectural masterpiece, fine proportions & rich detail of Kmer construction – 600 meters of bas relief & 2000 apsaras (celestial dancers) – continue walking out south gate to
  • 2nd stop Angkor Thom – one of largest Kmer cities ever built – compound includes King’s Palace – in center of complex
  • 3rd stop Bayon – temple of 196 Buddha faces carved in massive stones – 37 towers still standing with 4 faces carved on each side of each tower – continue walking NW
Bayon

Bayon

  • 4th stop Bapuon – enormous temple mountain – massive 5 tier pyramid with wonderful stone carvings – continue walking to
  • 5th stop Elephant Terrace – raised promenade with carved elephants on walls leading to Royal Reception & Pavilion – includes five projecting stairways
  • Good News – full day and ready for managers reception
  • More Good News – lots of imported wine and good food, don’t need dinner
Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm

FF – face masks are not for pollution – brown face means you’re poor – white face means you have good job – not a farmer/fisherman

Day 26 – Sunday, March 21 – Siem Reep, Cambodia

Full Day Excursion 8:30 – 4:00

  • Good News – good coffee
  • More Good News – very well educated, articulate guide
  • 1st stop Pre Rup – structure of brick towers – golden sandstone color very different & pretty – name means “turning of the body” which is corpse cremation rite
  • 2nd stop Ta Prohm – strangler figs and silk-cotton trees entwined among ruins – plant takes hold in crevice (usually deposited where bird drops a seed) roots seek soil and overtake structures – where they filmed Tomb Raiders
  • 3rd stop Banteay Samre – excellently restored Angkor Wat style temple – remote, isolated, peaceful setting
Banteay Samre

Banteay Samre

  • 4th stop – Beng Mealea – 70 km from city – takes 1½ hours, part on dirt and rock rutted road– really isolated, in condition it was discovered, totally overgrown by jungle – “most explorable” temple in region – wonderful carvings & considerable disorder make it  all the more FUN for climbing – served as the model for Angkor Wat – only been open for 2 years (had to remove land minds from the war)
  • Good News – walk through town, meet shipmates for drink, have dinner & go to local market

FF – didn’t see ravages of American War other than Da Nang

This Little Piggy Went to Market

This Little Piggy Went to Market

Day 27 – Monday, March 22 – Phuket, Thailand – Really, Really Hot & Humid (like everywhere we have been except Hoi An)

  • Good News – have had an incredible experience!
  • Bad News – early flight and not nearly enough time in Siem reep – over 80 temples in area, only saw 9 – must go back!
  • Good News – plane takes off early – at hotel by 2:00
  • Bad News – did not have internet on Mekong Delta River and computer crashed!
  • More Bad News – hotel charges for internet in 15 minute increments (when was the last time you saw that!) – we have had free internet almost everywhere we stayed
  • Good News – F&B Manager walks by – nab him & ask him why there is a charge for internet – tell him computer problem and he helps by locating Dell store in downtown Phuket (what are the chances)
  • Bad News – 45 minutes away and $45 round trip
  • More Bad News – had to leave computer at store for two days
  • Good News – going to Koh Yao for two days!

OOO – Obscenely Outrageously Overpriced – internet at JW Marriott costs over $12.00 per hour – have had free internet everywhere else

Day 28 – Tuesday, March 23 – Koh Yoa, Thailand

  • Good News – Cappuccino & good coffee – serenaded by morning birds @ breakfast overlooking the ocean
Phang Nga Bay

Phang Nga Bay

  • Good News – 9:00 pick -30 minute drive to boat – Farook our guide quite FUN – have boat all to ourselves – go sea kayaking around towering limestone rock formation islands that jut straight up out of the ocean – go in to very narrow caves with very low ceilings – pitch black in the middle and open up to lagoon of blue skies and trees – lunch with sister boat of traditional Thai dishes of whole fresh fish, rice, vegetables, chicken, pork, fruit
  • More Good News – see very shy, rarely seen Kingfisher bird

    James Bond Island

    James Bond Island

  • More Good News – get to Koh Yoa Paradise Resort & Spa – totally remote and isolated – just the staff and maybe 30 guests (reminds me of Koh Sumui 20 years ago)
  • Good News – amenities abound, DVD player, magnifying mirror, mini bar, Jacuzzi tub (filled with cool water and orchids)

FF – Phang Nga Bay consists of hundreds of uninhabited jungle islands

Day 29 – Wednesday, March 24 – Koh Yoa, Thailand

  • Good News – pretty decent coffee – 9:00 more sea kayaking – go snorkeling with bananas and create a feeding frenzy – 100 fish eating out of my hand and nibbling on my toes
  • More Good News –coral colors range from fuchsia, orange, purple, red, green, mocha
  • Bad News – some coral stings – feels like little pricks on skin & lips – didn’t touch it, some kind of energy they send out in the water
  • Good News – back in time for a massage (real massage table) in cabana draped in mosquito netting – start by steam bath (that’s one way to feel cool when it’s 100 degrees) come out for dip in waterfall pool – Swedish & Thai combined with oil – oo-la-la- almost like Sandra’s – cost $63 US with tip
  • Bad News – imported wine is expensive
  • Good News – bought 2 bottles in Duty Free for $36 US

FF – James Bond Island was made famous by the movie “The Man With a Golden Gun”

Day 30 – Thursday, March 25 – Phuket, Thailand

  • Good News – 9:30 take tour of island (koh) by tuk tuk (teeny tiny open car with fabric roof) – have lunch and take slow boat back to Phuket – go to Central Festival (huge totally Western mall) so Chris can get a haircut – one person washes and massages head for 10 minutes, then hair cutter cuts, then goes back to for another hair wash, then to dryer, then back to cutter to style – takes 1 hour – cost $12.00 US
Tuk-Tuk Tour

Tuk-Tuk Tour

  • Good News – have Starbucks
  • Good News – computer fixed!
  • More Good News – taxi driver left his cell phone number and picked it up for us yesterday

    Koh Yoa Paradise Resort & Spa

    Koh Yoa Paradise Resort & Spa

  • Bad News – have Dell warranty and charged $18 – total cost with taxis $87 – Have had numerous problems over last 2 years, everything that can be replaced has been, after hours on phone with tech support numerous times last year Dell finally agreed to send me a new replacement (should have had it before I left – this is probably the last Dell I buy after being a loyal customer for the last 15 years)
  • More Bad News – computer restored in Thai not English – must redo applications

FF – beware – any hotel with Resort & Spa at the end charges at least 25% more for everything – but they do have all the amenities (magnifying mirrors, mini bars, DVD players, high thread count sheets, pillow selections, thick towels, robes)

Day 31 – Friday, March 26 – Phuket, Thailand

Snorkeling

Fish Feeding Frenzy

  • Good News – 9:00 snorkel trip in Adaman Sea
  • Bad News – takes 1 hour to pier
  • Good News – have 40’ power boat all to ourselves – go to Racha Island – crystal clear and full of colorful fish, (parrot, angle, Nemos) see moray eel  – then on to Coral Island for lunch and more snorkeling – boat captain throws out line and catches a squid – see it shoot it’s black ink
  • Good News – have dinner with photographer from Mekong Cruise and his wife

FF – Adam Lambert hair is all the rage in SE Asia

This ends the first portion of our trip. We customized our itinerary and had private tours with English speaking guides and included all airport pickups and drop offs. We controlled where, when, and how long we wanted to stay at each site we visited. If you want to know more about our agent that we booked this with in Bangkok email me. He is a wholesaler and deals with travel agents. You need to do your homework first, know your budget and where you want to go. Best time to go is November & December, however, it’s more expensive. Second week of January prices drop and shouldn’t be as hot and humid. Also, water levels in rivers should be higher unless drought continues.

Tieneman Square

Day 32 – Saturday, March 27 – Beijing, China (begin new trip with Ritz Tours)

  • Good News – 4:15 pm flight to Bangkok – on time – no charge for excess baggage
  • Good News – 7:15 pm flight to Beijing on time
  • More Good News – have 1st class for coach price
  • Bad News – only 2 bottles of red wine (no French, only Great Wall available) for entire 1st class (we blew through that quite quickly)
  • Good News – Beijing is air conditioned – get off plane and even jet way has AC – leave it to China
  • Bad News – arrive hotel 3 am

FF– could be in any US city – totally surprised by how cosmopolitan Beijing is

Day 33 – Sunday, March 28 – Beijing, China

Forbidden City Sculpture

Forbidden City Sculpture

  • Good News – sleep in – get up have breakfast – find lobby filled with people – turns out big wedding is happening – Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini & Porches drive up – out pops young woman in wedding dress and fur with tuxedo clad young man – “must be rock star wedding?” we ask. To which hotel concierge replies, “No, just rich.”
  • Good News – get up & realize all of Beijing has turned on AC for us. We are so lucky! It’s a balmy 55 degrees
  • More Good News – good coffee – take walk & attempt to read map in Chinese, head to Silk Street to shop
  • Bad News – Silk Street is 6 floors of 100’s of stalls with the same stuff
  • Good News – each floor organized by items
  • Bad News – shopkeepers grab, pull on your clothes, & beg you to buy
  • Good News – great prices, but must bargain hard (start at 25% of what they want and work up)
  • More Good News – get Tommy Bahama embroidered shirt for $14 US
  • Bad News – may have to buy another suitcase so we can buy more to take home
  • Good News – get Tumi luggage (knock off  I’m sure) for $38 US!
  • Good News – back to hotel in time for Happy Hour – get nachos ($15 US) pretty good

Day 34 – Monday, March 29 – Beijing, China

  • Morning Excursion – 8:30 to noon – Tiananmen Square – 110 acres restored for Olympics
  • Forbidden City – 180 acres – largest Imperial Palace in world – 9,999 rooms total
Forbidden City

Forbidden City

  • Afternoon Excursion – 12:30 – 3:30 – Temple of Heaven – groups of Chinese playing cards – groups of kids kicking colorful feathered badminton type object
  • Bad News – hate to be negative, but Beijing feels a bit anti-climatic due to seeing such beautiful temples for last month – can’t go inside, no lighting, plus not very spectacular
  • Bad News – Mao Mausoleum is closed on Mondays
  • Good News – Dinner of Peking Duck good – kids from all over the world on field trip to see Kung Fu show having dinner with us too
Temple of Heaven

Temple of Heaven

Day 35 – Tuesday, March 30 – Beijing, China

  • Good News – today they even turned on the misters in addition to the AC!
  • Good News – brought long johns
  • Bad News – no gloves (50 degrees)
  • Bad News – drive for 1 ½ hr to Ming Tombs (only 20 miles – traffic is horrendous (not to mention how erratically they drive)
  • Good News – Ming Tomb – bare weeping willow trees and 18 stone carved statues line the promenade Sacred Way to the tombs
  • Bad News – heavy fog & rain
  • Good News – buy postcards so we know what it looks like in good weather
  • Good News – off to Great Wall, one of the New 7 Wonders of the World (Badaling section) – wall is like giant dragon snaking over 4000 miles across China
  • Bad News – drive another hour – shrouded with thick, dense fog and drizzling rain
  • More Bad News – very few steps, path of stone tiles that snake up, very steep & slippery
  • Good News – buy postcards so we know what it looks like in good weather

FF – there are no single family houses in Beijing

Day 36 – Wednesday, March 31 – Beijing, China

Ming Tomb Statue

Ming Tomb Statue

  • Good News – free day – no rain and warmer (50’s)

    Great Wall

    Great Wall

  • Bad News – disappointed that Great Wall trip was not rescheduled for today
  • Good News – take a cab to see Hutongs – old section of Beijing with narrow alleyways – see the Bell Tower & Drum Tower (how  they told time in 14th century) bell could be heard 5km away (tour not included – wanted $50 US per person – took ourselves for $3)
  • Good News – take nice walk to Mexican Wave Restaurant (since 1988) – missing my comfort food
  • Bad News – poor excuse for Mexican food (frankly nachos at Millennium bar were pretty good)
  • Good News – stroll back down 3 block long shopping mall covered by LED ceiling of ocean scene w/colorful coral, fish and whales swimming

FF – Food not as good as SE Asia

Day 37 – Thursday, April 1 – Xi’an, China

Summer Palace

Summer Palace

Morning Excursion – 8:30 – 10:30 (clear but cold)

  • Summer Palace – large manmade lake w/temples

    Terra Cotta Warriors

    Terra Cotta Warriors

  • Good News – stop to see Birds Nest Stadium on way to airport
  • Bad News – on other side of freeway, so can’t take any good pictures
  • Bad News – Air China baggage charge $35
  • Good News – part of United Star Alliance so don’t have to pay
  • Bad news – don’t get to next hotel until 6:00 pm
  • Good news – very clean city, take walk in search of imported wine store, can’t find so ask police man for directions (they offer  ride in their golf cart and can’t find it either for 15 minutes) trees covered with white lights line the boulevard

Not so FF – tour should have been more flexible – scheduled around weather and sites open

Day 38 – Friday, April 2 – Xi’an, China Full Day Excursion – 8:30 – 5:00

  • Good News – take bus to Terra Cotta Army – unbelievable! Called the 8th Wonder of the World – 210 BC
  • 8000 life size (6’ -6.5’) terracotta warriors, 130 chariots with 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses, (the majority of which are still buried in the pits) arranged in battle formations in 3 pits (16,300 square meters) discovered in 1974 by farmers digging a well
  • More Good News – Go to bell tower & drum tower, tallest structures downtown, connected to the original stone city wall 9 km around – city filled with trees in bloom and hundreds of tulips, nice mix of old & new architecture
  • More Good News – dinner of dumplings, 18 kinds, restaurant filled with Chinese people, not tourists!
  • More Good News – Ming Dynasty Show after dinner

Day 39 – Saturday, April 3 – Chongquin, China

  • Morning Excursion 8:00 – 10:00
  • Good News – go to largest, most famous Buddhist Pagoda – dubbed the Westminster Abbey of China
  • Good news – see beautiful gardens and Jade factory
  • Good News – only 1 hour flight – bags checked by tour bus driver and no excess weight charges!
  • More Good News – JW Marriott executive lounge on 36th floor – really good, free imported wine

FF– Chongquin very hilly – called “Hong Kong of the East”

WOW Word-Of-the-Week #292: Travel

February 28, 2010 by · Comments Off on WOW Word-Of-the-Week #292: Travel 

Travel – to go from one place to another, as on a trip; journey.

How do you feel about travel? Do you take vacations? Do you like going back to the same places? Do you dream of traveling to far away and/or exotic locations?

Travel means a lot of different things to a lot of different people. I started traveling for work when I was opening restaurants for Gilbert/Robinson in 1977. Those were the good old days of travel. Actually, travel was pretty much FUN up until 9/11/2001. Then everything changed.

Antartica (6)In 2006, I logged my millionth mile on United and that has given me premier executive status for life. That means I automatically get upgraded if possible and can check bags at no charge. That has turned into a major bonus since who would have ever thought they would charge for baggage. Frankly it just may be cheaper to buy clothes in the city you go to and leave them there!

My husband Chris has flown a million and a half miles on Delta. He has lifetime status as well. So we now have a double bonus.  And as for all those miles, we are in the process of using them up.  Last year for my birthday we went to Antarctica. Several of our passengers were commenting that they had been to all seven continents. We realized that in all of Chris’ travels he had not been to Asia, except for Turkey.

He just retired in November, 2009, and wants to go everywhere. So we are off on the biggest travel extravaganza that we have ever had! Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and China for 7 weeks. If you want to know what we are up to, or have been up to, you can find out by going to my website www.FUN-damentals.com and click on my FUN-travel link.  Chris takes pictures and I write the very short travel logs.

This week think about how you feel about travel. Do you have miles in your account that are waiting to be used? Where do you really want to go? What is stopping you from doing that? I hope you enjoy coming along with us and wish you many Bon Voyages!

Reader Responses

Big smile!!! So excited for you both. You should twitter your travel adventures too! Will definitely be logging on to your site to check it out. Have lots of fun … Warm Regards,Kay

Wow!  Great pictures and good log.  So where is the picture of you two on the elephant?  I’m glad you’re having much better weather than Tahiti even if it’s smoggy.  Talk about smog, wait until you get to China someday.  They also have a Venice of the East in China.  Keep having fun.Love, Elaine

HAVE A WONDERFUL TRIP!! That is quite an itinerary. So glad you have this opportunity – enjoy!! Mary

Is it a coincidence that travel and travail are so similar?:) John

I enjoy travel, especially with Kristen and the girls. Kristen is very knowledgeable about airfares, ground transportation, discounts, frequent flyer miles and layovers. She has been doing all of this type of planning for her bosses over the past several years, so it is pretty much second-nature for her. All I need her to tell me is where I sign to pay for everything, and we’re good to go. Our older girl, Erin Grace, is just like Kristen in that way. Not only does she love to travel, but she enjoys the airports and airplane rides. It is fun to watch her drag her Polly Pocket suitcase-on-wheels through the terminals. She loves it. Our younger girl, Emma Phoebe, is still getting the hang of everything. She is curious, and loves to look at everything around her – on and off the planes. I did not take my first vacation alone until 1989. I went to Maui for nine days, and it was the most peaceful nine days of my life. I can’t wait to go back with the girls. There are places we like to go every year: Naples, FL (to visit my parents), and Door County, WI (for long early fall trips). Those are the familiar trips we like to take annually. In a few weeks we will take the girls to DisneyWorld in Orlando. The girls don’t know yet. They just think we are going to Naples, FL, to visit my folks. We felt that with my dad’s recovery from a recent stroke we would only spend one day with my parents toward the end of the trip. So, we will fly into Orlando and spend time at the Magic Kingdom and do all the Disney things for five days and then drive to Naples to visit with my folks for one day, and then we will drive to Ft. Myers for the return trip home. I have NEVER been to DisneyLand or DisneyWorld. Kristen has been a few times. So, it will be an exciting event. Kristen and I went to Bermuda for our honeymoon. It was gorgeous. A great time. We will certainly bring the girls there one day. Kristen and I would love to go to Wimbledon one day. That is a dream of Kristen’s. And finally, as I have mentioned in previous posts, my dream vacation is Tahiti. That is where I want to go one day. Kristen is not too thrilled about it because of the amount of time on the plane. Me, I don’t care how long I am on a plane. Just to get away from civilization for two weeks would be ideal. We will see. As much as I like to travel, I am not peripatetic. I like our home base. I don’t like to hop from one place to another in my life. I like a stable home environment. Where we live now, the neighborhood has kids Erin’s and Emma’s ages; there are three parks within five minutes walking distance of our home; the schools are within two blocks of our home; and shopping is very convenient for Kristen. In fact, the stores are a five-minute drive from our home. So, it is ideal. Travel is fun because we see another area of the country, learn about other people and see things we have never seen before. Since the girls are at a very curious time in their lives, it makes it that much more fun. Great word, Susan. We will talk. Take care. “Warrior” Joe

FUN-travel: Asia

February 18, 2010 by · Comments Off on FUN-travel: Asia 

Day 1 – Tuesday, February 23 –  Asia – 5 Countries – 51 days – Longest Trip Ever Taken

  • Good News –there is No Bad News! Planned Spontaneity is working
  • Use points for Business Class ticket – plane leaves LAX at 11:45 am – have feeling to get to airport early – flight to LAX cancelled – make earlier flight (better to get to LAX and wait in Red Carpet Lounge)

    Marriott Bangkok

  • More Good News – rest of flights on time – just really, really long (11 hours to Tokyo – 2 and a half hour layover – 6 hour flight to Bangkok)Good News – able to sleep
  • More Good News – arrive 1 hour early – get to hotel at 12:30 am
  • Good News – stay at Marriott and get upgraded to junior suite, river view room – have corner room with incredible views – room #636 (very auspicious) good sign for start of trip
  • Bad News – wine is really,  really expensive in Thailand

FF (FUN Facts) – Bangkok, known as the City of Angels is a landscape of striking contrasts: massive new skyscrapers along with over 400 glittering Buddhist temples,

Vegetable Market

Vegetable Market

Day 2 – Wednesday, February 24 – Bangkok, Thailand – Day lost to travel & time changes

Day 3 – Thursday, February 25 – Bangkok, Thailand

Grand Palace Mosaics

Grand Palace Mosaics

  • Bad News – tour pickup 8:30 am – not much sleep over past 2 days
  • Good News – go to flower market – then to Wat Chetuphon (also known as Wat Po), a Buddhist temple dating from the 16th Century – see Reclining Buddha, 46 meters in length and 15 meters high, with beautiful mother of pearl inlaid soles
  • Good News – next stop Royal Grand Palace – under restoration – gold and colorful mosaics that cover the temples are more beautiful than last seen 20 years ago
  • Good News – have traditional Thai lunch – then ride antique river taxi boat through winding canals – houses on stilts, schools, temples, and shops line the canals (traders in tiny boats sell their wares)
  • More Good News – free happy hour from 4 to 7 in concierge lounge (including wine)
  • Good News – able to stay awake until 9 pm – get on Thai time (go to sleep and stay asleep with aid  of Ambien)
Floating Market

Floating Market

FF (FUN Facts) – Bangkok is also known as the “Venice of the East” – extensive network of klongs (canals) linking the Chao Phraya River

Day 4 – Friday, February, 26 – Damnoen Saduak, Thailand

Morning Bath

Morning Bath

  • Good News – slept good – depart 8:00 am for 1 hour drive to the Floating Market
  • Good News – colorful, busy and chaotic ride! – stop for lunch on river – go to teak and rosewood furniture factory (watch artists carve wood to create beautiful pieces  of furniture)
  • Good News – dinner cruise on antique rice barge – traditional Thai dancers

Day 5 – Saturday, February, 27 – Chang Rai – Golden Triangle – Where Borders of Laos, Thailand & Myanmar (formerly Burma) Converge

Ready For Our Walk

Ready For Our Ride

  • Good News – pickup for airport 11:30 am – have leisurely breakfast (highly recommend this hotel – beautiful Thai influence – not  your typical business hotel at all)
  • More Good News – fly Thai Airlines to Chang Rai – part of United’s Star Alliance so no baggage charge for excess weight
  • Good News – on time, met at airport, arrive Anantara Resort – beautiful property perched high on hill overlooking the Mekong River (also run Four Seasons tented camp on other side of mountain)
  • Only Bad News – poor air quality, very hazy
  • Good News – full orange moon from our balcony
Orange Full Moon

Orange Full Moon

Day 6 – Sunday, February, 28 – Chang Rai – Golden Triangle

  • Good News – sleep good – get up early for Driver’s Ed, Thai Style – resort contains a private elephant camp
  • More Good News – they are easier to ride than a camel! – little scary at first but have two hours to learn how to mount, dismount and steer them through the jungle –
  • Good News – go to Opium Museum –excellent state-of-the-art exhibition focused on the 5,000 year history of the drug and its profound effects on society in this region and around the world – then take drive to town to see temple
  • More Good News – everything is flowing nicely – we love Thai food and the people are so kind and gracious!

Day 7 – Monday, March 1 – Ban Kiew Kan, Thailand

Our Hostess at Lanjia Lodge

Our Hostess at Lanjia Lodge

  • Bad News – 2 day boat trip on Mekong to Luang Prabang, Laos cancelled due to low water levels
  • Bad News – very sore from elephant ride!
  • Good News – instead take 1 hour drive to Lanjia Lodge – a community co-op hill tribe-style lodge (4 rooms) with western conveniences – private toilet & shower, hot water (in shower only) – woven bamboo floors and walls, mosquito netting

    Hmong Shaman's House

  • Good News – very different experience – simple but charming, perched on side of mountain in the middle of a Hmong & Lahu village – spectacular panoramic view of village and mountain valley, Mekong River, and Laos in the distance
  • Bad News – burning of rice fields creates very thick smoky haze – can’t see much in distance
  • Good News – except for some roosters in the morning, almost deafening silence (one of the pleasures of staying in the countryside)
  • Good News – guide from lodge speaks English, walk through village, stop at a Hmong shaman’s house , learn how to make one of their traditional crafts – indigo batik, and visit Royal Project to plant a medicinal tree in community nursery
  • Good News – go inside villagers home – witness actual Lahu shaman ceremony to bring good luck to family
  • Good News – after dinner short performance of traditional music and dance by villager
  • Good News – food is very good and have lively conversation with our British lodge mates

Day 8 – Tuesday, March, 2 – Luang Prabang, Laos

  • Bad News – drive 5 hours to Chang Mai airport
  • Bad News – still sore from elephant ride!
  • Good News – stop and see very beautiful all white temple with mirrored mosaics
Pure White Temple

Pure White Temple

  • Good News – only 1 hour flight, on time, and no extra charge for overweight baggage
  • Good news – Luang Prabang  is former capitol of the Lan Xang Kingdom (1353-1545AD) and one of the best “preserved” towns in all of Asia – very charming, quaint  colonial-style wooden and brick buildings – all preserved under the town’s UNESCO World Heritage Site status
  • Good News – French influence – lots of outdoor cafes and fabulous bread
Mekong River Boats

Mekong River Boats

  • Good News – official name of the country is Laos People’s Democratic Republic (Laos P.D.R.) – initials actually stand for Please Don’t Rush!
  • Good News – delightful time-warp atmosphere (feels like we’re in the 50’s)
  • Good News – good food, cheap wine – dinner & bottle 200,000 kip – $23 US
  • Good News – stroll through huge night market – lots of activity and people watching

Day 9 – Wednesday, March 3 – Luang Prabang, Laos

Bridge From Boat to Village

Bridge From Boat to Village

  • Good News – wakeup call is symphony of birds chirping in trees outside our window – 5:55 am
  • Good News – early enough to see seemingly endless procession of monks on alms rounds (as many as 250-300 monks depending on season) – barefoot, in single file, and in descending order of seniority and age on main street (2 blocks from hotel)

    Monks on Morning Alms

  • Bad News – need coffee
  • Good News – find a hotel café open
  • Bad News – didn’t ask the price – $11 US ouch (60 cents from street vendor)
  • Good News – start out for day of touring at 8:30 – get on Mekong for 2 hour boat ride to Pak Ou Caves to see Buddhist shrine – stop at village for break half way – see women weaving on looms and men making straw baskets
  • Bad News – need bathroom, no western toilets to be found
  • Good News – the cave is filled with thousands of offerings of Buddha statues in various sizes and shapes – on way back see Laotians panning for gold (the low water level allows for more access to river bed)
  • Good News – lunch including beer $13 US – restart for city tour – see former Royal Palace, now a modest museum, displaying personal items and gifts presented to the former Royal family – visit several temples (not in nearly as good condition as Thailand)
  • Good News – made reservations for L’Elephant, a French restaurant, best meal we’ve had the entire trip (may be getting a little tired of eating rice, veggies, curry, etc.)

Day 10 – Thursday, March 4 – Luang Prabang, Laos

Mosaics on Outside of Temple

Mosaics on Outside of Temple

  • Good News – have day to ourselves – after breakfast at our river café take long walk through old town (about a mile) – hike up 328 steps to top of Mount Phousi for panoramic view of the town, river, and surrounding countryside (unfortunately too much smoke in air to see very far)
  • Good News – need laundry – drop off 5 shirts & 4 pants – only $4 US

    Weaver in Village

  • Bad News – not ironed, oh well, who cares?
  • Good News – wander aimlessly through streets and come upon the locals market of fruit, fish, rice, noodles, vegetables and meat vendors – (if it’s true what they say in the US about proper food handling and refrigeration, all of these people should be dead)
  • Good News – need some familiar food – lunch at French café – have thin crust pizza and very fresh Greek salad
  • Good News – book 90 minute massage for $10 US
  • Bad News – you get what you pay for – not the same as Sandra’s back home

FF- So far weather to date, midday has been hot and humid – early morning and late evening very cool – need light jacket

Day 11 – Friday, March 5 – Hanoi, Vietnam

  • Good News – have nice morning walk and late checkout of our lovely riverfront hotel – Chang Heritage
  • Good News – get to airport – Laos Airlines boards – has all passengers on board, so takes off 30 minutes early (same as last flight) no excess baggage fee – only allowed one bag at 44 lbs and we are way over
Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum

Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum

  • Good news – get concierge level at Hanoi Hilton because Chris has Diamond VIP status – love that free wine & food (same reason we get upgraded at Marriott’s)
  • Bad News – this is the end of getting spoiled – he retired so no more trips to Pasadena
Hanoi Temple

Hanoi Temple

  • Good News – like having all the creature comforts – not all the time – like the mix of small, older local hotels too
  • Good News – 8 Crazy Aussies in lounge – have quite good FUN with them!
Forbidden City in Hue

Forbidden City in Hue

FF – One of the things I like about travel is all senses are in full gear – sight, sound, smell and totally in the present moment

Day 12 – Saturday, March 6 – Hanoi, Vietnam

  • Bad News – wake up to disagreeable digestion – only ate at recommended restaurants – in all our travels can’t remember when this happened the last time
  • Good News – not a problem as we are covered by “planned spontaneity” prescriptions
  • Good News – best cup of hot coffee I have has since leaving US
  • Good News – our tour guide is very intelligent and articulate
  • Good News- start tour at Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum – he’s embalmed in glass case – then of to Hoa Lo Prison (the “Hanoi Hilton”) where so many prisoners of war were incarcerated, then go to beautiful Temple of Literature compound –
  • Good News – have lunch in Old Quarter – very French architecture with crumbling houses crammed into narrow alleyways that are still named after the goods that were traded there – Silk Street, Gold Street, even Fried Fish Street!

FF – Hanoi is known as “the city of Motorbikes.” Crossing the street is counter intuitive. You don’t run, you stroll, watching the traffic and making sure they are watching you. This city rivals Naples, Italy and Mexico City when it comes to following any kind of traffic laws

Day 13 – Sunday, March 7 – Hue, Vietnam

Pagoda

Pagoda Complex

  • Good News – only 1 hour flight Vietnam Airlines, on time, and no extra charge for overweight baggage
  • Good News – old, charming, classic hotel built in 1901
  • Good News – not as hot here – take boat ride on Perfume River to Pagoda Temple – get to observe Monks chanting and preparing for the evening  meal
  • Good News – dinner on outside court yard with traditional musicians and dancers
Porcelain Decrorated Walls

Porcelain Decrorated Walls

  • Good News – have chorus of frogs in ponds making sounds I’ve never heard in my life (sounds like they’re saying YEP, in unison, in a digital voice)

Day 14 – Monday, March 08, – Hue, Vietnam

  • Good News – still not so hot – 80 degrees
  • Good News – 9:00 am tour of Imperial Citadel, most well-known site in Hue – begun in 1805 by Emperor Gia Long, complex comprised of the Imperial City, several museums, lakes, and lovely gardens – see Forbidden Purple City built in early 1800’s for emperors personal use and staffed by eunuchs who posed no threat to the royal concubines. Nearly destroyed in the Tet Offensive – ruins house Royal Library (UNESCO named it a World Heritage Site in 1993)
  • More Good News – take drive through country side to Tomb of Emperor Tu Duc – prolific writer who left behind 4,000 poems and 600 stories – huge complex sits on highest hill- walls are covered with porcelain figures – then on to Khai Dinh’s Tomb
  • Good News – lunch at hotel – need Western food – have club sandwich (clearly not even the same as in the US but close enough) and Salad Nicoise (pretty close too) – YUM!
  • Bad News- missing the Oscars – no party with friends – first time in seven years
  • More Bad News – not televised! and my computer can’t download off the Oscar website – WiFi too slow

FF- Today is Woman’s Day in Vietnam

Khai Dinh's Tomb Grounds

Khai Dinh's Tomb Grounds

Day 15 – Tuesday, March 09 – Hoi An, Vietnam

  • Bad News – wake up to rain
  • Good News – cooled down – maybe it will blow out the smoky haze
  • Good News – 3 hour drive to Hoi An – over Hai Van Pass – see lots of country side, rice fields, water buffalo
Hoi An Fish Market

Hoi An Fish Market

  • Good News – can see Da Nang from top – weather is clearing – stop for coffee
  • Good News – lovely hotel on beach and get upgraded to beach front room
  • Bad News – weather didn’t clear over here – very windy (50 mph) and cold
  • Good News – have lunch at hotel – club sandwich and Greek salad (getting closer, even get French fries)
  • Good News – free hotel shuttle to town (3.5 miles
  • More Good News – cute, charming town with French, Japanese and Chinese influence – 18th century one of the busiest trading ports in Asia – despite the ravages of war town managed to remain untouched– traffic free streets easy to walk around – lots of shops – selling everything including custom clothing ready in 6 hours – find fresh food market – goes for blocks – pretty much run by women
  • Good News – Happy Hour in bar – wine is much cheaper in Vietnam
  • Bad News – we’re the only people in there
  • Good News – eat dinner at Italian restaurant with pizza oven! pretty good, thin crust

FF – Vietnam second to Brazil for coffee export

Hoi An Water Taxis

Hoi An Water Taxis

Day 16 – Wednesday, March 10, – Hoi An, Vietnam

Incense in Temple

Incense in Temple

  • Bad News – weather still windy and cold
  • Good News – have 10 am tour of city
  • Bad News – pretty much saw it yesterday
  • Good News – have lunch of local foods
  • Good News – back to happy hour – more people out – wind is dying down

FF – Had no idea that Da Nang is the next hot vacation spot – Hyatt & Le Meridian building massive vacation villas on huge ocean front parcels

Day 17 – Thursday, March 11 – Ho Ch Minh City (Saigon)

  • Bad News – have 5:30 am wake up – 3:30 am, wide awake
  • Good News – plane on time and once again no charge for excess baggage
  • Good News – go to Cu Chi Tunnels (Viet Cong guerillas built labyrinth of narrow tunnels virtually underneath U.S. military bases, used them to hide during bombing raids and to stage surprise attacks
  • Good News – descend stairs, walk 20 meters – that’s enough
  • Bad News – very teeny, tiny, tunnel – Chris gets stuck
  • Good News – Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon, backed to being spoiled with Concierge Level
  • Good News – take walk, have lunch, BLT sandwich & tuna & egg salad quite good (getting closer) with beer $10 (includes generous tip)

FF– Saigon is big, cosmopolitan city with 12 million people. AKA “the city of twice as many motorcycles.”

Day 18 – Friday, March 12 – Ho Ch Minh City Saigon)

  • Good News – start my morning with cappuccinos in lounge
  • Good News – start tour 9:30 am
Lunch Break

Lunch Break

  • Bad news – pretty hot (in 90’s)
  • Good News – go to colonial General Post Office (built 1886, still in operation), City Hall (now the HQ of the People’s Committee), Notre Dame Cathedral (closed by the Communist regime after the 1975 takeover) Reunification Palace, once the Presidential Palace (Communist tanks rolled into Saigon April 30, 1975, crashed through gate, soldier ran in and unfurled a VC flag from the fourth-floor balcony)  History Museum, China Town and local temple
  • Bad News – too much traffic
Notre Dame Cathedral Saigon

Notre Dame Cathedral Saigon

  • Good News – lunch of pizza, salad and ice cold draught beer $15

OO – (Outrageously Overpriced) – food & beverages in American hotels

Day 19 – Saturday, March 13 – 8 day Cruise – Mekong River Delta

  • Bad News – 8:00 am departure
  • Good News – ready to go
  • More Good News – should be good adventure!
  • Bad News – take 2 hour bus ride to get to ship in My Tho
  • Good News – beautiful, old teak & brass ship, only 38 cabins
  • Good News – lunch on board – set sail for Cai Be – take local boat to see floating market – stop at village – go to rice paper, popped rice and Coconut Candy Factory – family owned (mom, dad, 3 kids) all made by hand in thatched roof hut
  • More Good News – have met lots of interesting and FUN shipmates (made a point to find Aussies to guarantee a good time)

FF – brochure states, “River Conditions Warning!
The rivers you will sail on are subject to seasonal rises and falls of water level, in some places as much as 30 metres. Water levels can change dramatically overnight and a sudden rise can impede our progress upstream considerably and even prevent us from passing under certain bridges. A sudden fall can result in our being unable to get into certain places or go as far upstream as we would hope. Groundings on sandbars are not infrequent and are part of the excitement of any Pandaw expedition. Published itineraries are indicational only and subject to sudden change. In such events alternative itineraries will be provided and we do our best to ensure that if a stop is missed we make up for it with another stop. Passengers are thus forewarned and expected to be flexible and patient. River cruising in Asia can be a dramatic and adventurous experience – not like cruising the controlled waterways of Europe or America. Note also that we operate in areas with little or no developed infrastructure and subject to the strictures of local officialdom. Be prepared for this and it is all more the fun!

Coconut Candy Factory

Coconut Candy Factory

Day 20 – Sunday, March 14 – Mekong River Delta Cruise

Morning Excursion8:30 – 11:30

Brick Factory

Brick Factory

  • Take traditional Sampan boat to Dong Hoa Hiep to see Brick and Tile Factory – then to Rice Factory – everything done by hand (conveyer belt is line of 8 people passing the bricks & tiles to each other & stacked on boats)
  • Ride on Tien River where we see beautiful water hyacinths along the banks
  • Sa Dec – like a little “Venice” with numerous narrow canals & various activities on the banks – go to local market

Afternoon Excursion – 3:30 – 5:00

  • Cu Lao Gien island with Catholic monastery called “La Providence” – built 1875 by French nuns of “Saint Paul de Chartres” – very run down, sad place – where old, poor  woman with no family go to die

Good News – Bad News – This is really an incredible experience being able to see how the people live & being outside of the big cities

Floating Houses

Floating Houses

FF – Coconuts – all parts are used – milk extracted, meat scraped out, shells dried for fire wood

Day 21 – Monday, March 15 – Mekong River Delta Cruise – Chau Doc

Morning Excursion – 8:30 – 11:00

Going to Market

Going to Market

  • take rickshaw ride around city – then sampan boat ride to island of Cham Tribal Village
  • stop at fish farm (floating house with pen underneath – 6 x 8 x 12 meters deep – with 250,000 fish)
  • see palm tree leave weaving

No Afternoon Excursion

  • must wait to clear customs at Cambodia border – take nap

Day 22 – Tuesday, March 16 – Mekong River Delta Cruise – Phnom Penh

Morning Excursion – 8:30 – 11:00

  • City tour by cyclo (more comfortable than rickshaw)
Royal Palace

Royal Palace

  • Royal Palace, magnificent, huge compound of beautiful buildings and gardens, Silver Pagoda floor lain with five tons of gleaming silver, Buddha statue constructed of 90 kilos of 24 kt gold and 2086 diamonds the largest being 25 carats
  • National Museum – city has several impressive wats

FF – Cyclo Centre is charity that provides basic welfare and medical services to cyclo drivers, many of whom are very poor.

Courtyard in National Museum

Courtyard in National Museum

Afternoon Excursion – 2:00 – 6:00

  • Russian Market (very similar to all non food markets we have seen) contains house wares, clothing, shoes, hardware, souvenirs, etc.
  • S21 Genocide Museum where Kmer Rouge tortured and killed hundreds of prisoners
  • Killing Fields memorial of Choeung EK- memorial is over 50 ft high filled with shelf after shelf of hundreds of skulls stacked on top of each other

Good News – Bad News

  • the capital city is quite clean and modern while retaining its French charm extremes of prosperity amid  pronounced poverty

Not So FF – Kmer Rouge killed 3 million people during the war

Folkloric Dance Show

Folkloric Dance Show

  • wonderful after dinner Folkloric show of children dancing – 3 to 15 years of age – all from local orphanage

Day 23 – Wednesday, March 17 – Mekong River Delta Cruise – Kampong Chhnang

Fish Processing Plant

Fish Processing Plant

  • Good News – no morning excursion – yesterday was quite full
  • Afternoon Excursion2:00 – 4:15
  • take local boat to Kampong Chhang Village
  • see more floating house
  • stop at Fish Processing Plant
  • then on to the wholesale market on river bank
  • Set sail – lots of children splashing & playing while taking their baths all along the river

FF – Convinced music on ship surely was confiscated from US Soldiers during the Vietnam “Conflict”

Day 24 – Thursday, March 18 – Mekong River Delta Cruise – Chong Koh Village

Morning Excursion – 9:00 – 10:00

Typical Country Home

Typical Country Home

  • walking tour includes very colorful wat – all walls & ceilings totally covered with brightly painted mural
  • stop at school in session
  • then on to weaving factory (4 looms under 1 house on stilts) 3 smaller factories (2 looms under 1 house on stilts)
  • stop at store where egg salesman is delivering eggs (motorcycle with 2 large round baskets hanging off the sides filled with dozens of eggs, 4 crates stacked on top of each other and tied to seat)
  • back to ship inundated with villagers trying hard to get us to buy over priced scarves, table cloths, table runners
Colorful Temple

Colorful Temple

Afternoon Excursion – 2:30 – 4:00 – Angkor Ban Village

  • very rural Kmer village atop steep bank on river – town wat, home of monks, neighborhood consists of very narrow dirt roads with houses on stilts and animals housed underneath

FF – cows cost $1050 each

Day 24 – Friday, March 19 – Mekong River Delta Cruise

Morning Excursion – 9:00 – 10:30

  • walk 301 steps up hill to Pre-Angkorian temple Wat Hanchey – more commercial with oversized, concrete sculptures of painted fruits, vegetables and animals scattered throughout ground
  • cell towers abound
  • wander around and come upon Monks taking break in hammocks
  • 7th grade girls on way to school singing

Afternoon Excursion – Twin Holy Mountains

  • 50 ft gold lying Buddha
  • over 100 Canary Woman statues line the streets all colorfully painted blue, green, pink, gold
  • another killing field area as well
  • then on to Amica Village – walk through narrow dirt neighborhood streets with goats, chickens, water buffalo, dogs – kids playing in water at town well pumped by hand
  • then on to Kampong Cham orphanage – 91 children ranging in age of 3 to 17 – art classes and sewing classes teach them professions and sell to make money – buy 2 little colorful fabric purse/bags from girl who made them – cruise mates contribute $650 to buy new electric pump for well
Rush Hour Traffic

Rush Hour Traffic

FF – asked to be model for photo shoot on ship – magazine article being written about cruise

Day 25 – Saturday, March 20 – Siem Reep, Cambodia

Delicacy of the Day

    • Bad News – this is the end of the river cruise
    • Good News – this will be a lifelong memory
    • More Bad News – river too low, take bus for 4 ½ hours (we did not follow the normal itinerary – recommend going in early January in case of drought)
    • Good News – stop at local market – Delicacy of the Day – Fried Cricket